When we last left the Downstairs Bath we had gutted the room, replaced the exhaust fan and removed the popcorn ceilings. Which left us with a big empty hole where a bathroom used to be.
Half the drywall in this room was either covered with gross tile or a mirror and vanity. Which means we had a lot of work to do to get this room back together in one piece. Now every time we do a new project, we always promise each other that we'll hire out the drywall. It's not that it's difficult, it's like juggling for example. The concepts of juggling are pretty easy to understand, but actually being able to juggle well takes a lot of practice and talent. That's drywall for you, any dummy can learn how to do it, but it takes a lot of practice to be able to do it right the first time. Somehow every time the Hubs and I look at the cost to hire it out though, and get all confident that we can do it by ourselves again. And then I end up looking like this:
Will we ever learn?
But if you're willing to get a little dirty and spend some time to do it right, here goes.
Tools Needed:
Drywall T-Square
Carpenter Pencils
Utility Knife with Extra Blades
Countersink Bit for Drill
1 5/8" Drywall Screws
Joint Compound
Joint Tape
Drywall Knife
Drywall Sanding Paddle
Drywall Sanding Screen
Step 1- Lay out your sheet of drywall on a table or sawhorses. You'll notice in this post we are using both a green "water proof" drywall and a regular grayish-white color. Both have the same smooth finish and will paint seamlessly, so in this case its okay that we're using them together. We're all about using scraps, and for us this whole drywall project cost $0. Bam!
Step 2- Measure the size of the piece you will need. Drywall must always fit in between at least 2 studs in your wall so that it can be connected flush on both sides. If you don't have an exposed stud on both edges of your piece, you'll have to cut back the drywall still on the wall back to a stud. Cut it to the center of the stud, that way the piece on each side of the stud has room to attach.
Step 3- Use your T square to measure your cut on your drywall.
Ignore the garbage in my garage please. It hadn't made it out to the dumpster yet. |
Here's how it looks after scoring. |
Add caption |
Step 7- Once your piece is cut, its time to hang it. To do this you'll use drywall screws and a counter sink bit, which will allow your screw to embed just slightly in the drywall so that it isn't seen, without breaking through the piece.
This is what a countersink bit looks like. |
My tape looks like this |
No judging, we're still in progress. |
Step 9- Now comes the super messy part- 24 hours later, come back to sand. Use your paddle sander to smooth out your dried mud so that it is completely smooth and seamless. Don't sand too much that you can see your tape though, or you've gone too far. Make sure to close off the room and protect your house from the dust. Not that our sheet of plastic over the door did the trick... It can't. Be. Stopped.
This is the part that drives me to drink, because unless you are a secret drywalling genius, its likely that your mud won't be completely smooth and even the first time around. Which means you make a crazy mess sanding down everything, then you wipe down the walls and vacuum up the floor, and then start all over again. Apply mud to any seam, screw or spot that isn't completely smooth, scraping it off again with your knife at a 45 degree angle. Even though it's incredibly frustrating, trust me, any spot that is even slightly questionable now, will look terrible once you apply paint, so it's better to fix it now while its still "easy."
Full disclaimer, partially because I'm not very good at drywall, and part because I'm a Type A perfectionist, there were some parts in our bathroom with went back and redid 3 times. There's just nothing worse than doing all that work, and then once you apply the paint you have an obvious bump or line in your wall. But in the end we looked like this:
Hubs sanding the ceiling for the third time. |
Full disclaimer, partially because I'm not very good at drywall, and part because I'm a Type A perfectionist, there were some parts in our bathroom with went back and redid 3 times. There's just nothing worse than doing all that work, and then once you apply the paint you have an obvious bump or line in your wall. But in the end we looked like this:
Forgive the dark photos, I can't wait until we get lights back up in this business. But first we need to prime everything, (walls, ceiling, trim and door), then ceiling paint, then wall paint. Stay tuned!
PS- If you are just joining us and want to get the whole scoop on the Downstairs Bathroom remodel, you can click on the "Archive" Tab and search by the name of the room to view all the posts regarding that room. How it helps!
Hate hate hate drywall sanding.
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